![]() Plus, those dead pixels on the camera LCD will never show up in your images anyway! The same goes for stuck pixels on the camera LCD – don’t worry about them unless you have too many. Unless you have more than 2-3 dead pixels and they are close to each other, I would not worry about them. A single dead pixel means 0.0001% failure rate with 99.9999% of good pixels. Think of it this way – a typical 3 inch LCD from Nikon contains 920,000 pixels. So, what do you do with dead/stuck/hot pixels if you have them? If you only have one or two dead pixels on your LCD, don’t worry about them – dead pixels are a normal fact of life. If you decide to try it out, then do it at your own risk. While you might find some online tutorials on how to map out stuck/hot pixels with various software (only works with very old DSLR models), I would not recommend trying those. Unfortunately in most cases, you cannot fix dead, stuck or hot pixels yourself. You will probably see more hot pixels in the second photo at higher ISO than on the first one. Analyze both images and see if you can spot colored pixels that look like very small crosses when zoomed in. Next, set your ISO to 800 and increase the shutter speed to something fast like 1/1000 while keeping the aperture the same. Set camera shutter speed to 5-10 seconds and aperture to a large value like f/16 (to decrease the amount of ambient light that could potentially enter the lens through small holes). How to spot hot pixels: while keeping the lens cap on, set your camera to Manual mode, turn off Auto ISO and set your ISO to 100 (base ISO). My Nikon D3s had no visible hot pixels when it was new and now has plenty of hot pixels that are visible in longer exposure/high ISO images. Every single DSLR camera I have owned and/or used had hot pixels. Hot pixels will appear and disappear over time and if your brand new camera does not have stuck pixels, you can rest assured that you will have them at some point in the future. Hot pixels are very normal and they will show up even on brand new cameras, although manufacturers do their best to map hot pixels out during the QA process. Unlike stuck pixels, hot pixels only show up when the camera sensor gets hot during long exposures or when the ISO is cranked up above 400-800. It is normal for digital camera sensors and LCDs to have multiple stuck pixels. If you have a colored pixel (actually a small cross when viewed closely) that always shows up in the same spot, you have a stuck pixel. To find out if you have a stuck pixel on your camera sensor, take multiple different pictures at a base ISO such as ISO 100 or 200, then analyze the images at 100% on your computer screen. If you notice a pixel that never moves and has the same color no matter where you point your camera to, you might have a stuck pixel on the LCD. How to spot stuck pixels: to see if you have stuck pixels, set your camera to Program/Auto or Aperture Priority Mode, then turn on Live View and point the camera around, while carefully looking at the camera LCD. Stuck pixels are very common, but not permanent like dead pixels – they might disappear over time. Unlike dead pixels, stuck pixels do not change their color from picture to picture. The colors can be red, green, blue or any combination of these colors. Stuck PixelsĬompared to dead pixels, stuck pixels always receive power, which results in a colored pixel that shows up in the same spot on the camera LCD or on the sensor/images. If you see a pixel that shows up in the same spot and changes colors every time, or appears darker than the surrounding pixels, it is most likely a dead pixel. Take several pictures with different colors and patterns, then analyze the image at 100% view size. Finding dead pixels on the camera sensor is tougher. Dead pixels will always show up in the same spot even if you move the camera. Simply turn on Live View and point your camera at a bright area such as the sky. How to spot dead pixels: dead pixels are easy to spot on the camera LCD. Dead pixels might appear on DSLR LCD screens and sensors over time, which is normal. Dead pixels are rare on digital camera LCDs and sensors – manufacturers typically take care of dead pixels during their extensive Quality Assurance (QA) process. A dead pixel is a malfunction that is more or less permanent and does not go away over time. Since digital camera sensors have color filter arrays, also known as “ Bayer filters” in front of them, dead pixels do not normally show up as a black spot, but will rather show up of different color than adjacent pixels, or will be slightly darker than adjacent pixels. A dead pixel is a permanently damaged pixel that does not receive any power, which often results in a black spot on the camera LCD. ![]()
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Also, as mentioned above the queue itself would get screwed up when you hit the "Please check your query." error, which would explain why "Permanently Skip." doesn't add the corresponding entries to the download history. My best guess is that you have GiA configured to automatically add series-link entries to the queue when it starts, but your download history is either corrupt or missing and thus any previous downloads aren't detected. I'll leave this issue open for now as a reminder.Īs for the behaviour you describe in #1, needless to say I can't reproduce any of it. If it's what I think it is, it will be difficult to reliably reproduce, anyway. I recall seeing this error in the distant past, but I don't know how to reproduce it. You may not be able to manipulate the queue after the error appears, in which case try quitting and restarting GiA, then emptying the queue, then restarting again. If you encounter this error, the download queue will probably get screwed up, so you should empty your download queue and restart GiA. In this case, I'm pretty sure it means there is a low-level error when GiA attempts to add a series-link entry to the queue. That is a catch-all error that could mean several things. The behaviour in this area seems erratic but one has began from a clean series of files in /Applications support after an upgrade to -pre10. I've tried to replicate/rule out issues by deleting/restarting several times and occasionally then the same error as the first paragraph details appears. Should they not be hidden if you've instructed them to be skipped? Regardless, selecting and pressing "permanently skip selected series-link" entries does nothing and if you press the minus symbol to delete them they are replaced next time the program is restarted. 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BATTERY breathes life into your drum samples. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() If you have too many then when you drive/skid/slide on the model the physics engine will start to lag really bad. On another note, hopefully you already know this but if you are making a really big model in sketchup and plan on using the visible mesh for the collisions then I would consider keeping an eye on the amount of polygons in your model. I all so found a plugin for that is suposed to make normal maps from an image, but it cant really say it made much difference when I applied it to the model in game. Or make your own if you can use Photoshop or similar.Īs for generating normal maps with sketchup I found a plugin that's meant to help create them from 3D geometry you create, but I haven't really messed about with it yet. There are already a few decals included with skid marks/pot holes/cracks etc that you could use. As I gather this seams to be a road/concrete/asphalt type texture you are working on. I just thought I would add that painting decals in random places can break up repeating textures quite easily in the map editor. Then again i only know programs to generate normal maps from images that would cost you money, like crazybump or pixplant2. Also SketchUp does not have to support normal maps if you only use them on texture details but not for faking geometry details of the mesh. I can try to generate a seamless texture for a test.Įdit: im new to the software myself and so some stuff is hard to achieve, most easy i found is asphalt or concrete and such. just link me a texture of a material you would want to have as seamless texture for your huge object. i cant manualy too myself but pixplant can. You can use looped textures on any object size without seeing repeating details, even in hd textures, if you can create the texture. Another one is having shadow and light details, that you could not achieve within a game, without normal or bump map, due to the high polycount those details need in case you try to model them. I have no idea if sketchup supports it, i dont use it.īut be sure that normal maps are very well worth it performance wise! Performance is one of the main reasons why normal maps are used. If not, i should be able to generate you some seamless textures that have no single details that stand out, as long you can provide source images and describe what you wish for. Maybe you can take the texture then cut the watermark out and make the rest seamless again in gimp. It is more than worth its money but also has a demo version, full functionality for 30 days but renders a watermark into the texture. It mixes them up if you wish so and you can even mask certain details on the source image to have those areas excluded from the source, and so also from the generated texture. It can generate seamless textures from single or multiple source images. And i dont use sketchup because it is worth to learn blender or similair instead using sketchup!³īut have a look at this nifty little tool I fell in love after a coupe seconds!^^ When i uv-map a texture, i either have to use endless huge textures to preserve the resolution or rearange the uv map in parts by hand which can turn out to be a real monster in worktime on huge objects with thousands of polygons. The big disadvantage i see is that you sometimes want details but still not looped as offten as the background. If you remove all those details that stand out of the background, you can have very nice loop effects. I mean for example a single bright spot or a scratch in a metal surface. The thing about seamless textures that get looped is you dont want to have distinguishable details within the overall look of the texture. ![]() ![]() ![]() Its user interface is great and not that complicated to use even for first time users. Plus some features such as image editor capable of adding arrows, cropping, and other basic photo editing. Snagit is a stable platform that first released in the early 90s for image and video capturing. So in this article, I will do a sort of a Snagit review, for us to learn more about this product. Among those activities, one of which being popular among users is sharing informative and educational videos to their friends.And one of the currently used program for this was Snagit. What’s your preferred method of capturing screenshots on your Mac? Let us know in the discussion thread below.Now that Internet has become an inseparable part of life, billions of people are now hooked to various online activities, which bring them a lot of fun. System requirements, meanwhile, are straightforward and help ensure a multitude of Mac users can begin leveraging Snagit’s benefits within minutes. The program also includes integrated support for loading screen captures directly to, email, Camtasia, Google Drive, YouTube, and Facebook, among other options. The TechSmith app can export files in all the following formats: Whereas some screen capture applications sometimes require a third-party tool to convert resulting images to the desired file format, Snagit doesn’t suffer such limitations. ![]() Because the Snagit software key works on both Windows and Mac (running OS X Mountain Lion - version 10.8 - or newer), Mac users can ensure they’ll be able to complete their work regardless of which of the two platforms they’re using. Users can also specify whether Snagit’s Capture Windows appears, a Menu Bar icon displays, or both. Like many utilities, Mac users can configure Snagit’s preferences to load the program automatically. These advanced features are also easy to use. There’s also an active menu that parks itself on the right edge of the user’s desktop that helps leverage the program’s impressive range of additional features, including capturing scrolling windows and adding special effects (such as borders and shadows). Most users will begin being able to capture screens, windows, and video using Snagit’s Capture Window. The accompanying Getting Started Guide is first-rate. Snagit includes a short one-minute how-to video. ![]() Snagit excels at capturing specific portions of a screen, scrolling windows that commonly elude lesser applications, and video - often used to generate basic how-to and tutorial information.Ī lover of documentation, it’s possible I haven’t before encountered a better-supported program. The $49.95 program, for which a fully functioning free trial is available, replicates the simple screen captures OS X’s native Grab makes possible. The most effective tools are often the easiest to wield. But what does a Mac user do to capture scrolling windows, video, a specifically sized area, and other similar tasks? I recommend Mac users turn to Snagit. OS X places the resulting image on the desktop. Press the, , and keys simultaneously, drag the crosshair pointer that appears to highlight the area you wish to capture, then release the mouse. OS X even makes it easy to capture only part of your screen. OS X makes an image of your screen and places the image on your desktop. Just press the, , and keys simultaneously. Fortunately, Snagit can help.Ĭapturing a screenshot using a Mac is simple. Collecting a screenshot using a Mac is easy, but capturing video, scrolling windows, and performing other screen capture tasks is more challenging. ![]() ![]() ![]() Some past versions of Lightroom did this, possibly due to inefficiently copying data between GPU and main memory. In some software it's not unknown for an app to actually slow down when GPU acceleration is enabled. If Apple holds to the unified memory design, that should greatly reduce overhead in copying GPU memory buffers back and forth to main memory. There are other issues besides Apple Silicon GPU benchmark performance. We will know a lot more in the apparently near future when the "M1X" is released and the 32-core GPU is benchmarked. It's like trying to measure 20 feet with a one-inch ruler. Those performance levels are so far beyond the current M1 they could be way off. That assumes no further per-core enhancements and also discounts any performance advantage of using tile-based deferred rendering, which is possible with the Metal 2 framework. That might be very roughly 70% faster than an RTX-3090. If you keep projecting along that line, it would imply the rumored Apple Silicon Mac Pro with a 128-core GPU might be roughly 4x that fast, or about 350,000 on Geekbench 5 compute. I'll report back once I have a chance to load a few projects and test the MacBook out more.Ĭlick to expand.If you extrapolate linearly from the published Geekbench 5 compute numbers for the M1, that implies the hypothetical M1X with 32 GPU cores might be at least 30% faster than the 16GB Vega 64 in the iMac Pro. I figure that will be a good stop gap until we get a better look at what the future AS pro machines will look like. I'm going to try to pick up a 6800xt today and put it in my eGPU for use on the iMac Pro. Maxon seems all in on AS, both C4D and Redshift devs were on the M1 launch reel, and the R23 launch reel heavily featured C4D running on Mac OS. AMD is launching cards in spitting distance of Nvidia. We're FINALLY getting metal support in the renderers. I've been hovering over a PC build for a long time and almost pulled the trigger, but now I have serious hope for the future of the Mac in mograph. ![]() I have not fully installed all of my plug-ins on the MacBook (this may be the speed difference) or loaded a complex project. It boots in 8 secs on my M1 MacBook, 10 secs on my iMac Pro. ![]() After Effects in Rosetta seems to work.You can't even install freaking Acrobat in Big Sur. Looks like Adobe will finally have to modernize their ancient code in all their Creative Apps to port them over. There is a M1 native beta for Photoshop, but it is missing a ton of features. Maybe a year or more before we see the entire suite ported. I'm guessing it will be the June release before we see any apps out of beta. Looks like it will be a LONG time before Adobe apps are fully ported. ![]() ![]() ![]() Check out the initial two steps and then click "Next" to begin the next step of the installationĤ. 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